Chaumet in London: a new chapter in the alliance


Precious Opus, Chaumet’s history is taking place in France. It was in Paris that Marie-Étienne Nitot first set up her gold and silver smelting company in 1780, and it was here, too, in the French capital, that the business, then run by her son François-Régnault Nitot, relocated. at Place Vendome in 1812.

Today, Chaumet be like the oldest working stones at Place Vendome; began operation from the Hôtel de Gramont town hall at number 15, before moving into the courtyard to 12 Place Vendome in 1907. Here, at the Hotel Baudard de Saint-James, Joseph Chaumet coordinated the work of about 175 workers under one roof, staff work. jewelry, sculpture and watchmaking in addition to the photo studio. In downtown Paris, Chaumet’s group completed a magnificent small fortune, which saw the business name go far beyond the city limits.

And, in addition to the heritage system there is also a list of clients that Chaumet has seen in several chapters of French history. Especially among them is the selection of maison in 1805 as gemstones Queen Joséphine (Joséphine de Beauharnais), first wife of Emperor Napoleon I.

But, as further research into archeology shows, Chaumet also attracted many along the way.

Hidden issues

At the moment, the brand is busy making digital and directing what it has; it is a process that gradually reveals the vignettes of its heritage. “The more we do, the more slowly we get new news,” Chaumet chief Jean-Marc Mansvelt tells me. Next, he admired the handwriting that depicts the necklace, its natural design based on the wreath. The painting was published in May 1851 – later that year, Chaumet exhibited at the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park in London – and was created by Queen Victoria. “No wonder,” Mansvelt exclaimed. “I think there are some hidden issues.”

Also in the mall: orders issued by Churchill family members, Winifred Anna Cavendish-Bentinck, Duchess of Portland, and Indian-born Merle Oberon. The year of his marriage to the Duke of Windsor, Wallis Simpson fell on the Chaumet watch which appeared in Cannes, in 1937. Both Alice Grosvenor, Lady Wimborne and Roberte Ponsonby, Countess of Bessborough at one time wore Chaumet tiaras. Armed with diamonds and rubies, Lady Wimborne wore her 1925 bandeau stone in a painting by Cecil Beaton; At the center of the art deco Bessborough tiara from 1931 shines a well-known diamond of 12 carats.

Meherbai, the wife of an Indian businessman, Sir Dorabji Tata, kept Chaumet’s negotiations and a number of laws, among them a 1920 brooch that worked with Indian diamonds and opal. Four years later, Chaumet completed a diamond and ruby ​​necklace with two pearl necklaces.

But Lady Tata was sold by Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster. In many of his rules Chaumet’s literature: diamond-based powder (1923); 1920 emerald and diamond brooch; selection of pendants.

1922 Chaumet diamonds of the 9th Duke of Marlborough1922 Chaumet diamonds of the 9th Duke of Marlborough

‘Beauty is very important’

Tiaras was also listed in the Duke Order, the most famous of which was created in 1907 as two glittering wings in blue enamel and diamonds, their avian designs in harmony with Belle Époque’s creation and head-turning. winged helmets wearing the Valkyries crown described in Wagner’s play of the time.

Another well-known tiara that was recognized in Paris by customers across the channel was the 1934 diamond-shaped flower arrangement, completed at Edwina Mountbatten, Countess Mountbatten of Burma. Mountbatten also had the Chaumet bracelet (crystal, sapphire and diamond) bracelet, a diamond bezel with a diamond and baroque pearl and a Gormette diamond bracelet – his Mountbatten tiara was worn prominently at the George VI crown in 1937.

“It’s always what people come to see in Chaumet,” Mansvelt said when I asked about Chaumet’s expertise in making head ornaments. “He knows it’s a Chaumet short. Maybe, if you dream of Chaumet you dream of a tiara from Chaumet.”

Elsewhere, Chaumet jewelry and accessories for British clients are amazing because of their modern design. It’s something Mansvelt today calls “essential”, a white line that allows high-tech weapons to shine. For Mansvelt, that’s how “beauty is important and not putting chocolate on Chantilly.” [cream]”.

Known for its minimal design, the 1926 diamond forms the Mansvelt concept. Collier – in the center of which sits a diamond-shaped pear for breath – worn by Lady Iya Abdy. Born in Grigorievna de Gay in the 20th century Saint Petersburg, de Gay arrived in Paris after the Russian Revolution and in 1923 married Sir Robert Henry Edward Abdy. Best Artist – co-hosted French artist Balthus and André Derain – Lady Abdy was also a very handsome, portrayed by Man Ray and George Hoyningen Huene, among others. Also a beautiful beauty: a 14-diamond necklace placed on the Duke line of Marlborough, in 1922.

And today in London, Chaumet has entered a new chapter in its partnership with the UK. Last summer, the brand reopened its retail space on New Bond Street. A short walk from London’s first pied-à-terre Chaumet, which opened in 1848 on New Burlington Street, is a refurbished place with ideas like jewelboxes. “For us, it’s a very important country,” Mansvelt said. “Such an important place, such an important city, such an important road. You can’t pretend to be a beautician if you are not in the UK, if you are not in London, if you are not on New Bond Street. It is part of being a very beautiful person. “


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